Mountaineering and Peak Climbing

The 800-km stretch of the Nepal Himalaya is the greatest in the world with eight peaks that rise above 8,000m including the highest in the world, Mt. Everest. Ever since the country opened its peaks to climbers in 1949, the Nepal Himalaya has become a great theatre of mountaineering activity and the drama of success and failure have provided impetus to thousands of men to meet the ultimate challenge. The Nepal Himalaya has been attraction to many people, by they saints philosophers, researchers and adventurers.

Mountaineering permitAll mountaineering teams desirous of obtaining a permit in Nepal, must submit an application in the form as prescribed, to the Ministry of Tourism & Civil Aviation, Mountaineering Section enclosing therein a recommendation of the concerned government, or of Mountaineering Association of its home country recognized by the International Mountaineering Association (U.I.A.A) or a recommendation of the Embassy of its home country for the kingdom of Nepal, ordinarily four months prior to its proposed mountaineering expedition.

Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA)There are 18 peaks in the range of 6500 m and below, open for Alpine trekking under Nepal Mountaineering Association or NMA. It should be noted that in most cases the climbing of these peaks require snow and ice climbing experience. Detailed information and application for climbing permits are available from the Association’s office at Nag Pokhari, Kathmandu.

Submission of Route MapFor Mountaineering ExpeditionEvery mountaineering team, while submitting an application to the Ministry of Tourism & Civil Aviation, Mountaineering Section for a Mountaineering permits, should submits a map, as prescribed which clearly depicts the caravan route and the expedition route.

Payment of Climbing permits Fee (Royalty)The leader of the expedition team is required to pay the full amount of climbing permit fee (royalty) within two months of the date of permission. In case of the failure of the payment of royalty within two months, such permission may be cancelled.The climbing permit fee (royalty) must be paid directly in favor of the Ministry of Tourism & Civil Aviation, Mountaineering Section, either by bank draft or bank transfer to Nepal Rashtra Bank, Thapathali, Kathmandu, payable in convertible foreign currency.

Equipment for ExpeditionHis Majesty’s Government may provide the following facilities to any mountaineering team, which has obtained a permit for mountaineering expedition.

To import and use temporarily, during the expedition such number of walkie-talkies not exceeding 12 and two sets of wireless having the capacity to communicate between the base camp and the nearest police station or the place where the means of telecommunication is available on the condition that such sets shall be taken back to the home country of the team after the end of the expedition.

Partial exemption of customs duty on the goods and materials imported for the expedition.

Two sets of wireless having the capacity to communicate between the base camp and the capital city Kathmandu, provided the mountaineering team desirous to use such facility shall have to hand over one of the two sets of wireless to the Ministry of Tourism & Civil Aviation, Mountaineering Section, for its use during the continuation of the expedition.

Altitude SicknessAltitude Sickness, often know as Acute Mountain Sickness or AMS, if not treated when symptoms first appear, can lead to death. It is the effect of altitude on those who ascend too rapidly to elevations above 3,000 meters. Early mountain sickness will manifest itself in headache, loss of appetite and sleeplessness. Do not ignore these warnings otherwise more serious symptoms can occur which can even cause death sometimes within a few hours. Being young, strong and fit does not help. Medicine is no substitute for descent. If a doctor is available, he may give medicine and oxygen. However, the patient must go down even if given treatment. If you travel in Khumbu region you can contact hospitals at Khunde and Pheriche and if you travel to Manang hospital for altitude sickness and information. Doctors are available there during trekking seasons.

Mountaineering RegulationThe royalty and the size of the expedition Team.More than one team may be permitted to climb Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) by a separate route each in one season. A Royalty of US$ 50,000 has been fixed for Sagarmatha for a team consisting of seven members. The team may includes 5 more members provided it pays extra US$10,000 for each additional member. The royalty includes trekking fee of the team members. The team members will be granted a three months visa. Additional, US$ 20,000 will have to be paid by the team willing to scale Mt. Everest by normal southeast ridge route.

In all regions including Khumbu, an expedition team can have up to 7 members for the minimum royalty, and 5 more members for the additional royalty.

The team already permitted to scale Mt. Everest will have to pay US$ 10,000 if it intends to change the ascent route. It will have to pay additional US$ 20,000, if it intends to change the ascent route to normal south east ridge route.

For peaks other than Mt. Everest, the team will have to pay an additional 25% of the royalty in US Dollars to change the ascent route.

The expedition team must complete all necessary administrative formalities and procedures in order to send back the garbage of the expedition to their respective countries, after the completion of the expedition. The Ministry of Tourism & Civil Aviation will take necessary monetary deposit from them, which will be refunded after the dispatch of the garbage from Nepal. Mountaineering Royalty (in US$)

Classification of For expedition For each additionalPeaks including up to member exceeding 7 members up to a total of 12 members in a team

Peaks above 8,000 meter 10,000 1500Peaks of 7501-8000 meter 4,000 500Peaks of 7001-7500 meter 3,000 400Peaks of 6500-7000 meter 2,000 300Peaks below 6501 meter 15,00 200

The Ministry of Tourism & Civil Aviation, Mountaineering Section, has opened up 133 Himalayan peaks ranging from peaks above 6,500 meters to the Mount Everest (8,848 meters) for foreign or joint expeditions. Likewise, The Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) offers 18 Himalayan Peaks for alpine trekking.

List of the mountain up 8000m. in Nepal

S.N.

Name

Range

Height (m)

Latitude (0'0")

Longitude (0'0")

1.

Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest)

Mahalangur/Khumbu

8848

275917

865531

2.

Kangchenjunga

Kangchenjunga

8586

274205

880901

3.

Lho Tse

Mahalangur/Khumbu

8516

275725

865603

4.

Yalung Kang

Kangchenjunga

8505

274215

880825

5.

Kanchenjunga South

Kangchenjunga

8476

274131

880925

6.

Makalu I

Mahalangur/Makalu

8463

275323

875635

7.

Lhotse Shar

Mahalangur/Makalu

8400

275730

685635

8.

Lhotse Shar

Mahalangur/Khumbu

8292

275853

865529

9.

Cho Oyu

Mahalangur/Khumbu

8201

280537

863943

10.

Dhaulagiri

Dhaulagiri

8167

284146

832943

11.

Manaslu

Mansiri

8163

283258

843343

12.

Manaslu

Mansiri

8117

275811

865600

13.

Manaslu

Mansiri

8106

280557

863959

14.

Annapurna I

Annapurna

8091

283545

834920

15.

Annapurna II

Annapurna

8046

280526

863937

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